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NGV – Ron Mueck

NGV – Ron Mueck

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Ron Mueck, Born Australia 1958, Two women 2005 (detail), polyester resin, fibreglass, silicone, wool, cotton, nylon, synthetic hair, plastic, aluminium wire, steel, 82.6 x 48.7 x 41.5cm (variable), National Gallery of Victoria, Purchased by the Victorian Foundation for Living Australian Artists, 2007 © Ron Mueck courtesy Anthony d’Offay, London

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Ron Mueck, Born Australia 1958, Dead Dad 1996/97 (detail), silicone, synthetic hair, polyurethane, styrene, 20 x 38 x 102cm, Private collection, Chicago, USA
© Ron Mueck courtesy Anthony d’Offay, London

In January 2010, the National Gallery of Victoria will present a major exhibition of the work of internationally renowned sculptor Ron Mueck. Known for his extraordinarily life‐like creations, this exhibition will feature twelve sculptures by Mueck including four new works. This will be the largest and most comprehensive Mueck exhibition ever to be held in Australia.

Frances Lindsay, NGV Deputy Director, said: “Since his dramatic entry onto the international art stage, Mueck has continued to astound audiences with his realistic, figurative sculptures and now occupies a unique and important place in the field of international contemporary art.”

The exhibition will draw from Australian and international collections, highlights include: Mask II, Man in a boat, Old woman in bed, Wild man, In bed, and through the generosity of a private collector from the United States, the iconic work Dead Dad.

In addition to these there will be a number of new works created specifically for this exhibition which will be unveiled for the first time in Melbourne.

NGV

NGV – Drape: Classical Mode to Contemporary Dress

NGV – Drape: Classical Mode to Contemporary Dress,
2 December 2009 – 27 June 2010

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COMME DES GARÇONS, Tokyo (fashion house) est. 1969, Rei KAWAKUBO (designer), born Japan 1942, Dress 1997 spring-summer, cotton, polyester, nylon tulle, 122.0 cm (centre back length) 47.4 cm (waist, flat), National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, Presented through the NGV Foundation by Takamasa Takahashi, 2005

Opening in December, the National Gallery of Victoria will present a spectacular collection of works in Drape: Classical Mode to Contemporary Dress. The exhibition will feature over 30 works primarily drawn from the NGV’s holdings of fashion and textiles, as well as key loans. Sculpture, paintings, decorative arts and photography, from antiquity to the present day will also be on display. Drape will showcase elegant gowns from the 19th century to more contemporary works including designs by Dolce & Gabbana and Comme des Garçons among others.

Paola Di Trocchio, Assistant Curator, International Fashion and Textiles, NGV said that bodies have been adorned in draped cloth since classical times. “After animal skins, draped woven cloth was the first means of clothing, and in Ancient Greece, was worn in countless configurations to indicate class, gender and social positioning. Over time, the wearing of loose cloth has become associated with elegance, timelessness, comfort, wealth, prestige, divinity and barbarism,” said Ms Di Trocchio.

Drape will explore the practice of arranging cloth on the body in two dominant modes, clinging drape and elevated drape. Clinging drape relies on direct contact between the body and the cloth, as in classical sculpture, while elevated drape shows fabric theatrically sculptured away from the body, similar to the gathering of cloth over crinolines and bustles.

Frances Lindsay, Deputy Director, NGV said: “The draped form has been a constant feature throughout the history of art. This exhibition will delight visitors with the myriad of ways in which artists and designers have produced timeless works with this fashion feature.”

This exhibition will include antiquities from classical Greece and Rome displaying the complex art of wrapping and cinching. These works will be shown alongside more contemporary pieces by designers such as Rei Kawakubo, Vivienne Westwood, Gianni Versace, Christian Dior, Balenciaga and Hussein Chalayan whose creations reference the history of drape.

Drape: Classical Mode to Contemporary Dress will be on display in the Myer Fashion & Textiles Gallery at NGV International, St Kilda Road from 2 December 2009 to 27 June 2010. NGV International is open 10am–5pm, closed Tuesdays. Admission to this exhibition is free.

Principal Sponsor:  Myer
Support Sponsor:  Sofitel

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USSEIN CHALAYAN, London (fashion house) est. 1995, Hussein CHALAYAN (designer), born Cyprus 1970, emigrated to England 1982, Cast dress no. 2 2001 spring-summer, Ventriloquy collection (detail), polyester resin, (a) 44.0 x 39.0 x 20.0 cm (front) (top); (b) 45.0 x 40.0 x 22.0 cm (back) (top); (c) 60.0 x 95.5 x 34.0 cm (front) (skirt); (d) 60.0 x 88.5 x 30.0 cm (back) (skirt), National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, Presented through the NGV Foundation by Norma and Stuart Leslie, Governors, 2001

Veni Vidi Vici

VENI VIDI VICI

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VENI VIDI VICI is an exhibition of art questioning ideas of patriotism and environmentalism by illustrating a macabre and uniquely Australian banquet. Artists Rohani Osman, Katie Jacobs and Brittany Veitch use uniquely Australian native species to illustrate a traditional British dinner with a dark twist. Through research of historical representation of cultural practices within Australia, including poking fun at the British, the artists question the ideas of patriotism and environmentalism.

Exhibition opens: Wednesday 28th Ocotober 2009 – 6-8pm (exhibition runs: 28th Oct – 15th November), at C3 Contemporary Art Space – Abbotsford Convent (Gallery hours: Wednesday – Sunday, 10am-5pm), 1 St Heliers Street, Abbotsford, VIC, 3067, Australia. Map.

See more work from Brittany Veitch here; Katie Jacobs here.

ACMI – Tim Burton: The art and imagination of the most fantastical filmmaker of our time

ACMI – Tim Burton: The art and imagination of the most fantastical filmmaker of our time

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Tim Burton’s Corpse Bride (2005), Directed by Tim Burton and Mike Johnson, Shown: Co-director Tim Burton on the set, Photo credit: Derek Frey

The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) joins Melbourne Winter Masterpieces 2010 with an Australian exclusive exhibition direct from The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York. The largest exhibition to ever be presented in ACMI’s Gallery 1 has been curated in direct collaboration with Burton and features artworks and objects drawn from his personal archive, as well as studio archives and the private collections.

The exhibition follows the course of Burton’s career, with childhood ephemera, juvenilia, and amateur short films from his youth in Burbank, California; cartoons and drawings from his time at California Institute of the Arts; and examples of his first professional work at The Walt Disney Studios. Burton’s artistic output includes shorts Vincent (1982) and Frankenweenie (1984); and 15 feature films including Pee-Wee’s Big Adventure (1985), Beetlejuice (1988), Batman (1989), Edward Scissorhands (1990), Batman Returns (1992), Tim Burton’s The Nightmare Before Christmas (1993), Ed Wood (1994), Mars Attacks! (1996), Sleepy Hollow (1999), Planet of the Apes (2001), Big Fish (2003), Tim Burton’s Corpse Bride (2005), Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (2005), Sweeney Todd (2007) and Alice in Wonderland (2010); as well as writing and web projects such as Stainboy (2000).

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Tim Burton. (American, b. 1958), Untitled (The Melancholy Death of Oyster Boy and Other Stories ), 1982–1984, Pen and ink, marker, and colored pencil on paper, 10 x 9″ (25.4 x 22.9cm), Private Collection, © 2009 Tim Burton

Tim Burton will open at ACMI on 24 June and run until 10 October 2010. Mr Burton will be at ACMI in Melbourne for the opening of the exhibition.
To accompany the exhibition ACMI will curate a film season and specialist public and education programs for all ages, which will be announced at a later date.
Tim Burton is the second Melbourne Winter Masterpiece exhibition at ACMI after Pixar: 20 years of Animation, which broke international attendance records in 2007. Tim Burton will directly follow Dennis Hopper and the New Hollywood, another Australian exclusive exhibition at ACMI which premieres on 12 November 2009.

See more at ACMI here

The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) presents – Dennis Hopper and the New Hollywood

Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) – Dennis Hopper and the New Hollywood

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Thursday 12 November 2009 – Sunday 7 February 2010

Dennis Hopper and the New Hollywood is “an expansive exhibition showcasing an extraordinary man’s life’s work, his collaborations and personal art collection, and an amazing insight into a formative era of Hollywood”.

Known for his exceptional work in films such as: Easy Rider (1968), Rebel Without a Cause (1955), Blue Velvet (1986), Apocalypse Now (1968) and the Australian production Mad Dog Morgan (1976), this exhibition is to show a comprehensive look at his creative virtuosity.

ACMI Director, Tony Sweeney, “ACMI is excited to present this Australian-exclusive exhibition celebrating the work and life of a truly extraordinary filmmaker and artist. The exhibition allows us to engage in great depth and detail the catalogue of work by a courageous artist, reflecting on a bygone era which radically influenced the film industry that exists today.”

Dennis Hopper and the New Hollywood was originally produced by the Cinémathèque Française, in association with Dennis Hopper, Easy Rider Productions, and curated by Matthieu Orlean.

For its Melbourne presentation, the exhibition will feature a film season and a series of public programs, talks and workshops.

Dennis Hopper and the New Hollywood opens at ACMI on Thursday 12 November 2009 and exhibits until Sunday 7 February 2010. Dennis Hopper will be in Melbourne for the official opening of the exhibition.

Go Font Ur Self

Go Font Ur Self

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NGV: Chinoiserie: Asia in Europe 1620–1840

NGV: Chinoiserie: Asia in Europe 1620–1840

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Image 1: CHINA Qing dynasty 18th century Teapot porcelain, enamels (Cantonese ware) (a-b) 13.9 x 19.4 x 11.2 cm (overall) National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Arthur Allen Bequest, 1968; Image 2: Giles GRENDEY England 1693–1780 Daybed c. 1735–40 gold and silver leaf on painted wood, cane 99.8 x 198.0 x 82.3 cm National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Purchased, 1947′ Image 3: CHELSEA PORCELAIN FACTORY, London (manufacturer) England c. 1744–69 Dish 1753–55 porcelain (hard-paste) 4.1 x 20.1 cm National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Felton Bequest, 1939

“The National Gallery of Victoria will present a superb collection of Asian and European decorative art from the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries in Chinoiserie: Asia in Europe 1620–1840.
Opening 9 October, Chinoiserie will explore the European fascination with the ‘Orient’ and will feature works in a range of media including ceramics, furniture, glass, textiles, painting, prints and drawings.
Chinoiserie will include over 180 works drawn from the NGV’s Asian and European collections, as well as key loans,  and will illustrate the historical development of the style in Europe” – The National Gallery of Victoria

Chinoiserie: Asia in Europe 1620–1840 will be on display at NGV International, St Kilda Road from 9 October 2009 to 14 March 2010. NGV International is open 10am–5pm, closed Tuesdays. Admission to this exhibition is free.

Further information here.

NGV: Long Distance Vision: Three Australian Photographers

NGV: Long Distance Vision: Three Australian Photographers

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Matthew Sleeth
Born Australia 1972
Opfikon 1997, printed 2004
Type C photograph
43.2 x 43.0 cm
National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne
Presented through the NGV Foundation by Patrick Corrigan, Governor, 2005
© Matthew Sleeth courtesy of Sophie Gannon Gallery, Melbourne

“The National Gallery of Victoria will celebrate the work of Christine Godden, Max Pam and Matthew Sleeth in a new exhibition, Long Distance Vision: Three Australian Photographers opening 28 August.
Long Distance Vision will include over 60 photographs from the NGV Collection exploring the concept of the ‘tourist gaze’ and its relationship with the three artists”.

Long Distance Vision: Three Australian Photographers will be on display at The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia, Federation Square from 28 August 2009 to 21 February 2010. The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia is open 10am–5pm, closed Mondays. Entry to this exhibition is free.
Check the NGV site for further details.

John Brack – Major Retrospective

Men's wear, John Brack, 1953

John Brack, Australia 1920–1999, Men's wear, 1953, oil on canvas, 81.0 x 114.0 cm, National Gallery of Australia, Canberra, Purchased 1982 © Helen Brack

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For the first time in over twenty years, the National Gallery of Victoria is presenting a major retrospective of the work of John Brack, widely considered one of Australia’s greatest twentieth century artists. This important exhibition surveys John Brack’s complete career, incorporating over 150 works from all of his major series.

John Brack 1920 – 1999
For artists and designers, this exhibition of the art of John Brack is a very special event. As an artist, Brack was a skilled draughtsman, and a master of composition. These expert technical skills were matched by an intuitive use of spectacular colour and a sharp eye for detail. His work has inspired comments such as these:

‘a great observer of the absurdity of the human condition’
‘an explorer of social rituals in suburbia’
‘a graphic portrayer of the universal experiences of political struggle, religious difference and war’

‘a painter of modern Australian life’
‘the quintessential Melbourne artist’

The artist in his work
For John Brack, interpreting and documenting the social behaviour of others was an ongoing preoccupation, but occasionally he gave us a glimpse of his private self – by actually appearing in a painting watching others, as in Latin American Grand Final (1969), or by using mirror reflection as in Self-portrait (1955). In this work John Brack looks at both himself in the mirror, and beyond the mirror at the viewer, with the same penetrating, scrutinizing gaze. This painting could perhaps be seen as encapsulating his approach to the world which so strongly informed his art. It may also explain why each piece in his oeuvre is not only the artist’s personal appraisal of the subject matter, but also an opportunity for Brack to indulge his curiosity; to try to understand how other people’s lives, so different from his own, were playing out. As the artist, he was in a position of privilege; to be able to wonder, but to remain at a critical distance. Brack believed that art should be scrutinised. He wanted those who viewed his work to wonder about it, to question the artist’s intentions.

Self-portrait, John Brack, 1955

John Brack, Australia, 1920–1999, Self-portrait, 1955, oil on canvas, 81.5 x 48.3 cm, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, Purchased with the assistance of the National Gallery Women’s Association, 2000, © Helen Brack

We are told that he was an intensely private person, that he did not enjoy crowds, and neither did he like going to gallery openings. He was also dismayed by some reactions to his work. He wanted people to take time to look more closely, to see how the work could operate on different levels, and he was often disappointed when people reacted superficially. We also know that he destroyed a number of his early works because he did not think they were good enough. His wife, Helen Maudsley, a fellow art student, whom he married in 1949, has commented:

‘He was a serious person. He thought that taking art seriously
as a way of thinking about the world was worth doing.
He was impatient with bad faith and triviality.’

Helen Maudsley (Brack) in The Art of John Brack, by Sasha Grishin,
Oxford University Press, 1990, Melbourne.

Portraiture
While Brack took a serious approach to his art, and the subjects of his works were often judged by him, he also displayed sensitivity linked to a fond sense of humour. In the work entitled Third Daughter (1954), Brack has captured a young child’s frustration and rage with great effect. Brack not only creates a wonderful image, but also strongly communicates mood by means of texture. The medium – drypoint etching – is an immediate and tactile method of seizing a memorable moment. The scratchiness of the lines which make up her hair, her jumper and the crosshatching of the floor under her feet, serve to emphasise her agitation and the pricklyness of her displeasure. Brack’s intuitive understanding of his subjects has produced insightful portraiture: of family members, unknown individuals, and celebrity personalities.

Context and Culture
Informing the artist’s work: Life in the early 1920s and 1930s
John Brack was born into a Melbourne working-class family. He grew up in the period between the first and second World Wars, 1918 -1939. It has been said that despite his family environment providing very little in the way of music, pictures and books, John Brack was an avid reader. He was also a curious and perceptive observer of people and the environment around him. The early 1920s in Australia was a relatively prosperous and relaxed time, but it was followed by a period of radical change, of global dimensions. Culminating in the 1929 Wall Street crash, but initiated by a progressive world-wide collapse of commodity markets and high levels of overseas debt (similar to current global conditions), Australia’s economy fell victim to The Great Depression of 1930.  Affecting every family, Australia experienced acute rising unemployment.  At the worst stage, 29% of the nation was out of work. With unemployment came poverty, the inability to buy goods, long dole queues, and fighting over jobs. Soldiers returning from war became homeless. In an effort to provide funding for pensions and unemployment benefits, governments increased taxes on simple pleasures which made daily life harder to bear. Many public works projects were initiated to create jobs, but without a formal plan for economic recovery in Australia, progress was slow. By 1939, when World War Two broke out, recovery was still incomplete.

Collins St, 5p. m.
By the age of 16 years, John Brack was working in an insurance office in Melbourne, one of a crowd of daily commuters who trod the pavements to and from their offices. On one occasion in the city, he saw a Van Gogh reproduction in a shop window, and he was so captivated by it that he enrolled in night classes at the National Gallery School.  He went on to paint Collins St, 5 p.m. (completed in 1955, and acquired by the NGV in 1956). It is a graphic example of his ability to observe and to communicate not just a scene, but its mood. It is a compelling image. It invites us to wonder about it. John Brack’s intention was to have the painting work on different levels of meaning while appearing deceptively simple. Collins St, 5p. m. is described as having iconic status, and in view of Brack’s impatience with the superficial, one wonders how he felt about this description of one of the NGV’s most popular works.

Collins St, 5p.m., John Brack, 1955

John Brack, Australia 1920–1999, Collins St, 5p.m., 1955, oil on canvas, 114.8 x 162.8 cm, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Purchased, 1956 © National Gallery of Victoria

The Bar
Painted in 1954, The Bar is widely regarded as the companion piece to Collins St, 5p.m. and was only acquired by the NGV in March 2009, with the assistance of the Victorian State Government. Director, Dr Gerard Vaughan, considers it to be one of the NGV’s most important acquisitions of 20th century art. The painting marks a time in Melbourne when hotels were forced by law to close early (first introduced during World War Two and continued until 1966 when 10 o’clock closing became the norm). The phrase ‘six o’clock swill’ was used to describe the behaviour of patrons who crowded around the bars to get a last drink before closing time. In this work, John Brack cleverly uses the device of a mirror behind the bar to make it possible for us to see both sides of the bar at the same time. We stand with the patrons facing the barmaid as she waits on her customers. She looks tired and seems resigned to deal with this unruly crowd and the urgency of their demands – ‘One more beer over here, love!’

Horse Racing
John Brack’s curiousity about his fellow human beings lead him to explore all kinds of popular activities. He painted a series of works documenting his great attraction to the theatre of horse-racing. These images clearly demonstrate his fascination for the racing carnival atmosphere, its rituals and its colourful characters. One of these images, Jockeys heads (1956), is a strong statement, rendered in bold drawing style. The jockeys’ faces are angular and closed with a hint of being part of a culture of secret understandings. Brack was intrigued.

Dance
Dance was a developing popular social activity when John Brack was growing up. Between the two world wars (1920s and 1930s), originating in America, dance marathons became a national craze. These marathons, proclaiming: ‘outlast all others!’, and ‘dance till you drop!’ were physical, emotional and overtly sexual dramas which took place in dance halls, where women went to meet men. These social rituals played out on the dance floor to a hot jazz rhythm. Dance was the new ‘in’ thing; everyone was doing it at Australian dance halls – Ragtime preceded new dances such as the Foxtrot, The Charleston, and the Black Bottom. The 1930s was the era of the Big Bands and Swing music. In the late 1960s it was ballroom dancing competitions which prompted John Brack to create a series of works. He was intrigued by the willingness of human beings to try and master absurd ritual movements to a strict dance tempo. What was this strange behaviour really about? Brack’s stunning use of fluorescent colour highlights the theatricality of these farcical events. In the painting, Latin American Grand Final (1969), Brack can stay behind the canvas no longer, and he paints himself standing at the edge of the dance floor continuing to observe.

Latin American Grand Final, John Brack, 1969

John Brack, Australia 1920–1999, Latin American Grand Final, 1969, oil on canvas, 167.5 x 205.0 cm, National Gallery of Australia, Canberra Purchased, 1981 © Helen Brack

Nudes
John Brack’s first series of nudes were painted in 1957 in his North Balywn home. These early female models seem very awkward and uncomfortable in their nudity. They sit or lie in unrelaxed poses. They are not beautiful women, nor are they sexual or sensual. They sit on the edge of chairs communicating an overwhelming sense of unease, which is almost tangible. They are obviously not professional models. They are ordinary human beings who seem not to be enjoying this experience. John Brack, the perceptive observer, records the human condition, not without sensitivity, in all its naked vulnerability. Later studies, such as Nude with a dressing gown (1967) also lacks eroticisim, but Brack has charged the painting with an overlay of brilliant fluorescent green which transforms the image, and removes it from reality.

Abstraction, 1973 onwards
The suburbs of Melbourne had long inspired Brack with a vast landscape of human subject matter for his work. These finely produced images operated like a collection of mirrors, devices which Brack used often in his work. However, these reflections were all skillfully scrutinized by John Brack, and he hoped that the viewing public would think beyond ‘simple images’ and consider how the images could be read . In 1973, John Brack and his wife Helen Maudsley travelled overseas for three months, visiting London, Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam and Mexico City. When Brack returned home, his art underwent a dramatic change in form, from representational to abstract – from comparatively minor suburban happenings to universal issues of major scale. Previously, the human figure had been rendered by Brack in literal form. However, in abstraction, he substituted utensils of all kinds such as cutlery, pens and pencils, playing cards, and others for the human form. These were meticulously positioned on canvases which were underpinned with masterfully gridded frameworks. Mankind en masse was represented metaphorically by these everyday implements with riveting symbolic effect. These images about political struggle, religious difference and war, remain relevant and very powerful today.

The battle, John Brack, 1981–83

John Brack, Australia 1920–1999, The battle, 1981–83, oil on canvas, 203.0 x 274.0 cm, National Gallery of Australia, Canberra Gift of John and Helen Brack, 1992 © Helen Brack

Drawing, grids and increases in scale – a superb draughtsman
John Brack studied at night at the National Gallery Art School under Charles Webber, from 1938-40, and took full time classes from 1946-49. Fellow students included Sam Fulbrook, Yosl Bergner, Clifton Pugh, Fred Williams and John Perceval. Brack’s painting Men’s Wear 1953, his first major work after leaving art school, includes mirror-reflection, which creates another dimension, allowing the painting to be read, as Brack intended, on more than one level. From 1952, for the next ten years, he held the position of Art Master at Melbourne Grammar School, leaving there in 1962 to take on the position of Head of the National Gallery Art School until 1968. Under his management, the school was modernised and its status improved.

John Brack was a very workman-like artist. For the fundamentals of construction of a work, Brack was strongly influenced by Georges Seurat. Rick Amor, one of Australia’s leading painters, was a student of John Brack at the National Gallery Art School (1966-68).  Amor learned Brack’s method of working – starting off with rough ‘scribbles’ or sketches in journals, trying the same ‘scribbles’ in different media, gradually increasing the scale and building up the composition. By increasing the scale of the work, everything is placed in an organized space on the canvas. Brack used grids like engineering underpinning to position elements of each compostion. As Rick Amor has commented about his own work -

‘ … that grid I do is terribly important … it is about organizing things on a flat surface  … it’s what artists have always done. The use of grid lines gives the work a sort of inevitability inside that rectangle (canvas).’
(extracts: Rick Amor in conversation with Anne McCurdy, 2000).

John Brack’s painting, Up and Down (1971-72), a study of four male gymnasts, is a clear example of his technique of designing a skeletal structure over which the figure layers are intentionally and strategically positioned. The composition of the work is both visually dramatic and satisfying because of the balance created between foreground and background figures in organized space.

John Brack was a skilled and disciplined artist and designer. Understanding the way he worked, makes viewing his art an awesome experience.


24 April–9 August 2009

Open daily 10am–5pm and until 9pm every Thursday

The Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia
Galleries 17 – 20, Level 3
Admission fees apply

2 October 2009 31 January 2010
Art Gallery of South Australia

- Anne Paterson

John Brack – Major Retrospective – Gallery

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For the first time in over twenty years, the National Gallery of Victoria is presenting a major retrospective of the work of John Brack, widely considered one of Australia’s greatest twentieth century artists. This important exhibition surveys John Brack’s complete career, incorporating over 150 works from all of his major series.


ACMI Presents: Focus on Dante Ferretti

The Aviator (Martin Scorsese, 2005). Production design by Dante Ferretti

The Aviator (Martin Scorsese, 2005). Production design by Dante Ferretti

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‘I always try to find ways of manipulating reality to accentuate the central focus of the film. I’ll exaggerate certain details and discard others.’
- Dante Ferretti

Film Production Design is being celebrated at the Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) in its current exhibition Setting the Scene: Film Design from Metropolis to Australia. To coincide with the exhibition, ACMI Film Programs have curated a unique film season dedicated to the significant body of work of Academy Award winning, Italian production designer Dante Ferretti. A showcase of thirteen selected films featuring art direction or production design by Ferretti will take place at ACMI from Friday 20 February to Sunday 1 March in Focus On Dante Ferretti.

Dante Ferretti was both in Macerata, Italy in 1943, and studied set design in Rome before he was employed as an assistant to film architect Luigi Scaccianoce. With now 70 films in his continuing body of work, his first assignment as a designer was for Pier Paolo Pasolini’s Medea (1969) who taught Ferretti to draw inspiration from art history. One of the greatest examples of this influence can be seen in Jean-Jacques Annaud’s The Name of the Rose (1986). The film, adapted from the novel by Umberto Eco, is a medieval monastery-set thriller shot in Italy and Germany, and called for complex interior design to represent the labyrinthine drama. The construction of the interior plaza and abbey was supervised by Ferretti, and a reconstructed model is being exhibited at ACMI as part of Setting the Scene until April, 2009.

Baron Munchausen (Terry Gilliam, 1988). Production sketch by Dante Ferretti

Baron Munchausen (Terry Gilliam, 1988). Production sketch by Dante Ferretti

Following The Name of the Rose, Ferretti’s next major project was working on Terry Gilliam’s The Adventures of Baron Munchausen (1988), a film now perhaps better known for its production problems and cost overruns. However, this film can be viewed as a launch of sorts for Ferretti, as following this film his career really took off internationally. Since Baron Munchausen, he has worked with significant directors from all over the world, including Neil Jordan, Claude Chabrol and the late Anthony Minghella. Ferretti has also frequently collaborated with Academy Award winning American filmmaker Martin Scorsese on six feature films to date. Three of these films will be screening as part of the Focus On showcase: The Aviator (2005), The Age of Innocence (1993) and Casino (1995). Scorsese’s new feature, Ashecliffe, with Ferretti as Production Designer, is currently in post-production and due for release later this year.

The Aviator (Martin Scorsese, 2005). Production sketch by Dante Ferretti.

The Aviator (Martin Scorsese, 2005). Production sketch by Dante Ferretti.

Roberta Ciabarra, ACMI Film Programmer and Curator of the season, says, ‘Dante Ferretti’s vast body of work included ongoing collaborations with some of cinema’s greatest auteurs. In a way this is testament to his significant role in the history of filmmaking. From baroque and neo-realist Italian cinema to the Hollywood machine and some of the really defining moments in film, Ferretti has been part of it all.’

Dante Ferretti has won two Academy Awards in the Best Achievement in Art Direction category, most recently for Tim Burton’s Sweeney Todd: The Demon Barber of Fleet Street (2008) and in 2005 for Scorsese’s The Aviator. Both of these films will screen as part of the Focus on Dante Ferretti season, as well as The Age of Innocence (Martin Scorsese, 1993), Titus (Julie Taymor, 1999), The Black Dahlia (Brian de Palma, 2006), Interview with the Vampire (Neil Jordan, 1994) and The Adventures of Baron Munchausen (Terry Gilliam, 1988).
Ferretti’s early career in Italy and France will be represented by screenings of a smaller number of arthouse titles such as E la nave va (And the Ship Sails On) (Federico Fellini, 1983), La nuit de Varennes (That Night in Varennes) (Ettore Scola, 1982), Storie di ordinaria follia (Tales of Ordinary Madness) (Marco Ferreri, 1981) and Decameron (Pier Paolo Pasolini, 1971).

The Black Dahlia (Brian de Palma, 2006). Production sketch by Dante Ferretti

The Black Dahlia (Brian de Palma, 2006). Production sketch by Dante Ferretti

‘With the sheer volume of works in his filmography, we could have have done a whole festival,’ says Ciabarra, ‘but these works represent some of Ferretti’s defining moments, as well as those of the directors he has worked with. It’s a chance for ACMI to highlight the importance of production design and visionary directing and perhaps even more so, the deep interpretative skills these artists (quite literally) have. Their ability to get into someone’s head and translate concept into finely woven fabric is really quite something.’

- Kate McCurdy

Focus on Dante Ferretti
Friday 20 February – Sunday 1 March, 2009.
Australian Centre for the Moving Image
Federation Square, Melbourne
Admission fees apply

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The Works of Andreas Gursky – Gallery

Andreas Gursky was a first for not only the National Gallery of Victoria, but also Australia, as this was the only Australian venue to host the first major exhibition of Gursky’s work in this part of the world. The exhibition from the Haus der Kunst in Munich included twenty-one of Gursky’s major works, hand-selected by the artist himself.

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Art Deco: 1910-1939 – NGV, Melbourne – Gallery

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Art Deco: 1910-1939 is a comprehensive exhibition celebrating the significant period in which its glamour and style influenced design worldwide. Direct from London’s famed Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), the exhibition is staged exclusively at the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV); the fifth exhibition in the extremely popular ‘Melbourne Winter Masterpieces’ series, and the first to feature the decorative arts with over 300 works on display.

Art Deco: 1910-1939 – NGV, Melbourne

Oliver Bernard (designer) England 1881–1939 Strand Palace Hotel staircase 1930–31 glass (lit), chrome 370.8 x 447.5 x 444.7 cm (main); 261.0 cm (stairs) Victoria and Albert Museum, London © V&A Images/Victoria and Albert Museum, London

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Kate McCurdy


Art Deco 1910-1939

Art Deco: 1910-1939 is a comprehensive exhibition celebrating the significant period in which its glamour and style influenced design worldwide. Direct from London’s famed Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), the exhibition is staged exclusively at the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV); the fifth exhibition in the extremely popular ‘Melbourne Winter Masterpieces’ series. The first exhibition to feature the decorative arts, there are over 300 works on display.

Exhibition structure
The exhibition explores the chronological development of Art Deco, from its origins in Europe during the years leading up to the First World War, to the explosion of the movement at the 1925 Paris Exposition, and its enormous popularity and influence on design to countries across the globe. Art Deco 1910-1939 pays particular attention to the major influence of Deco in Australia, dedicating an entire section to Australian architecture, fine arts and product design.

AWA, Sydney (manufacturer) Australia 1913– Empire State, Fisk radiolette and cigarette box 1936 bakelite, glass, metal 28.5 x 28.5 x 18.0 cm Private collection, Sydney © Peter Sheridan

AWA, Sydney (manufacturer) Australia 1913– 'Empire State, Fisk radiolette and cigarette box' 1936 bakelite, glass, metal 28.5 x 28.5 x 18.0 cm Private collection, Sydney © Peter Sheridan


A global influence

The scope of Art Deco’s influence is accurately represented in the exhibition by the display of a wide range of artistic media including painting, jewellery, ceramics and glassware, fashion, industrial design, graphic design, film, architecture and interior design, automotive design, photography and furniture design. Also well represented is the spread of Art Deco at a global level, with featured art and design pieces from Europe, the USA, Asia as well as Australia and New Zealand.

Origins
Art Deco first appeared in Europe, in the years before the First World War. The movement developed in many of the cities where Art Nouveau was popular, and in the years following the war Art Deco’s own popularity and influence on art and design grew quickly, its influence spreading worldwide. The highpoint of this time was the 1925 Paris Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes, the first world fair dedicated to modern decorative arts. In the 6-month duration of the exhibition, 16 million visitors came from around the world to view the latest offerings in Art Deco design, which also served to reassert France’s reputation as the arbiter of taste and producer of luxury goods, as well as the centre of fashion, internationally.

Pablo GARGALLO Spain/France 1881-1934 Kiki de Montpamasse 1928, cast 1978 Bronze, ed. 2/3 27.5 x 16.5 x 17.0 cm Musée dArt Moderne de la Ville de Paris Gift of Pierette Anguera-Gargallo, 1981

Pablo GARGALLO Spain/France 1881-1934 'Kiki de Montpamasse' 1928, cast 1978 Bronze, ed. 2/3 27.5 x 16.5 x 17.0 cm Musée d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris Gift of Pierette Anguera-Gargallo, 1981


Inspired by the ancient, the exotic and the Avant-Garde

Art Deco itself is influenced by many factors, most significantly by ancient and exotic inspirations as well as styles from the avant-garde movements. Motifs, symbols and imagery from exotic cultures were widely appropriated to the style of Art Deco designs. Paul Colin’s depiction of cabaret dancer Josephine Baker, featured in the Exotic section of the exhibition, illustrates Art Deco’s fascination for the exotic.
The Avant-Garde also had a strong influence on the development of the Art Deco style, in which the art of French Cubism, Orphism, Italian Futurism and Russian Constructivism gave designers a fundamentally new and modern language of forms. These ideas were applied to graphics and textile designs, decoration of ceramics and glassware, as well as architecture, interior design and photography.

Paul Colin France 1892–1985 Josephine Baker 1927 from Le Tumulte noir (The black craze) portfolio, Paris: Editions d’Art Succès, 1927 lithograph and pochoir 47.3 x 63.6 cm (sheet) Victoria and Albert Museum, London © V&A Images/Victoria and Albert Museum, London © Paul Colin/ADAGP, Paris. Licensed by VISCOPY, Sydney

Paul Colin France 1892–1985 'Josephine Baker' 1927 from 'Le Tumulte noir (The black craze)' portfolio, Paris: 'Editions d’Art Succès', 1927 lithograph and pochoir 47.3 x 63.6 cm (sheet) Victoria and Albert Museum, London © V&A Images/Victoria and Albert Museum, London © Paul Colin/ADAGP, Paris. Licensed by VISCOPY, Sydney


The 1925 Paris Exposition

The 1925 Paris Exposition can be regarded as the belated ‘launch’ of Art Deco; the moment at which the style exploded onto the main global stage, while reinstating France’s position as a trendsetter and world centre for style at the time.
The Exposition included paintings from Jean Dupas; furniture design from Jacques-Émile Rulhmann, Sir Edward Maufe, Louis Süe and André Mare; François Pompon’s sculptures including the famous Polar bear; silversmith Jean Puiforcat’s designs; glass pieces from René Lalique, Maurice Marinot and Edward Hald; glamorous jewellery by Louis Cartier and fashion by couture houses Madeleine Vionnet and Maison Myribor.
Also exhibiting at the Exposition were works from designers Jean Dunand , Henri Rapin, Pierre Legrain, Rose Adler, Thayaht, F. Gregory Brown, Gio Ponti and Josef Hoffman.

The Art Deco streamlined lifestyle
A number of these pieces are exhibited in Art Deco 1910-1939, including Louis Cartier’s Tutti Frutti strap bracelet and double-clip brooch, a complex arrangement of coloured precious stones including ruby, emerald and sapphire. These pieces were sold to Cole Porter’s wife Linda Lee Thomas, whose fame adds to the glamorous appeal of this jewellery.
Other glamorous pieces featured in the exhibition are Coco Chanel’s dresses. Extending ideas from pre-First World War designer Paul Poiret, Chanel and Jean Patou created dresses that were designed to reflect the 1920s lifestyle of attending cocktail bars and the cinema. Hair and dresses were cut shorter, the latter to allow women to dance the Charleston, and accessories were designed to match.
The Art Deco style of streamlining influenced not only products and architecture, but the streamlined silhouette was also a coveted style in dress design. A significant practice in fashion design in this time was that of the bias cut in garment construction. This involves the woven fabric being cut on the diagonal to the direction of the weave, which provides greater elasticity and more fluid draping. Designers such as Charles James used this practice to produce sleek designs in matt silk crêpe or smooth glossy satin, which were sophisticated and very Art Deco.

Tamara DE LEMPICKA Poland 1898–1980, emigrated to France 1918, worked in United States 1939–69, Mexico 1962–80 The telephone II (Le téléphone II) 1930 oil on wood panel 35.0 x 27.0 cm Wolfgang Joop Collection, London © Tamara De Lempicka/ADAGP, Paris. Licensed by VISCOPY, Sydney

Tamara DE LEMPICKA Poland 1898–1980, emigrated to France 1918, worked in United States 1939–69, Mexico 1962–80 'The telephone II (Le téléphone II)' 1930 oil on wood panel 35.0 x 27.0 cm Wolfgang Joop Collection, London © Tamara De Lempicka/ADAGP, Paris. Licensed by VISCOPY, Sydney


The telephone and the skyscraper

Other highlights of the exhibition include Tamara de Lempicka’s The telephone II from 1930, and the stunning installation of the original architectural elements from the foyer of the Strand Palace Hotel from London’s West End, rescued by the V&A during the demolition of the foyer space in 1969.
Perhaps one of the most significant aspects of Art Deco’s influence on architecture is that of the skyscraper. As well as a striking symbol of modernity, the spectacle of the towering skyscraper also signifies the impact of the new modern style on the art and lifestyle of America. As the style of Art Deco spread from Europe to the United States and the rest of the world, so the American interpretation of Art Deco was shown and promoted to international audiences via the Hollywood film.

Travel and transportation
Travel is also an important inclusion in the exhibition, particularly film footage of the interior design of the Normandie, is featured in the Travel and Transportation section. The depictions of other modes of transport of this era, including grand luxury liners, streamlined trains and motor cars, as well as the exotic tourist destinations communicates the extent of Art Deco’s influence on mass culture and the modern world. Motor vehicle design is featured with the 1937 Cord 812 Westchester sedan, produced by Auburn Automobile Company in Indiana, USA,  given a prominent position in the exhibition.

AUBURN AUTOMOBILE COMPANY, Auburn and Connersville, Indiana (manufacturer) United States 1900–27 Cord 812 Westchester sedan 1937 160.0 x 180.0 x 500.0 cm Private collection, Melbourne Photo: Courtesy of Brian Scott

AUBURN AUTOMOBILE COMPANY, Auburn and Connersville, Indiana (manufacturer) United States 1900–27 'Cord 812 Westchester sedan' 1937 160.0 x 180.0 x 500.0 cm Private collection, Melbourne Photo: Courtesy of Brian Scott

Deco Down Under
One section of Art Deco 1910-1939 has an entirely Australian focus, displaying its architecture, fine arts and product design.
Historical photographs highlight the Sydney Harbour Bridge as being one of the most striking examples of this country’s architectural design, although local architecture in cities, suburbs and towns throughout Australia were strongly influenced by Art Deco. From the mass-produced objects of glassware and ceramics to distinctive handcrafted items of similar products, Australian Art Deco reflects unique national characteristics while at the same time embracing international modernity and Australia’s enthusiasm to be considered part of the global community.

This extensive exhibition is at once a nostalgic tour of the past and also a celebration of style that has never truly gone out of fashion.


Art Deco 1910-1939

28 June – 5 October 2008
NGV International
180 St Kilda Road
10am-5pm
Exhibition fees apply

Further information:
www.ngv.vic.gov.au

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Black is the new black

Return to DG magazine 129 contents

Black in Fashion 1

Mad Cortes, Sydney (fashion house)
est. 2000
Mira Vukovic (designer)
born Yugoslavia 1973, arrived Australia 1996
Berlin dress 2003–04 autumn–winter Berlin collection 2003–04
rayon, acetate, polyester, metal, elastic
71.0 cm (centre back); 33.5 cm (waist, flat)
Purchased, 2005

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Kate McCurdy

As the 2008 L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival has shown, this city’s relationship with the colour black is far from fading. The significance of this relationship, and indeed the strong presence of black in fashion design is now the subject of a major exhibition at the National Gallery of Victoria, Black in Fashion: Mourning to Night.

An NGV first: an exhibition across both venues
The exhibition presents garments and portraits and other items which are drawn from the NGV’s extensive collection of fashion and textiles as well as a number of private and public loans. Notably this is the first time that an exhibition has been held across both NGV venues. NGV International on St Kilda Road will display the worldly history of how black came to be chosen to represent such themes as authority, self-denial, conspicuous consumption, mourning, as well as the empowerment of men and women alike; while the Ian Potter Centre: NGV Australia at Federation Square takes on an Australian, and particularly Melbourne, focus.

Black’s dark associations
Black has come to signify and be associated with many things in its history, including but not limited to death and mourning, power and authority, self denial and humility, wealth, urbanity, sex appeal and allure, as well as elegance, sophistication and glamour. Due to the diversity of its connotations, black can often be seen as a contradictory signifier; its meaning is dependent on a subjective view in relation to its social context and artistic and functional intention.

The origins of black in fashion
Historically, Phillip the Good, Duke of Burgundy in the fifteenth century was the first to use black as a colour for fashionable dress, which stemmed from his mourning throughout his reign for his murdered father. His way of dressing had a strong influence at his court and soon black became associated with authority and power. The trend, reflected in the many portraits on display in the exhibition, continued through the centuries to European courts and parliaments such as Spain, the Dutch Republic and Britain.In the nineteenth century black became the dominant and popular colour for mens and womenswear, particularly in Britain. Adopted by the dandies and poets of the time, such as Lord Byron and Percy Bysshe Shelley, it became associated with the Romantic and immaculately tailored gentlemen of town. At the same time powerful men of industry and commerce came to wear black garments. Ironically, a uniform of black was also adopted by their servants at this time, although their clothing was of a lower quality and cut than their masters.

Mourning wear
Synonymous with mourning wear in the Victorian era was Queen Victoria herself, who chose to dress in black in mourning for the death of her mother, and later most notably, of her husband Prince Albert. Her choices informed the codes of mourning dress for the whole of Britain, and indeed influenced other countries such as Australia’s attitude to mourning attire. The mourning process became excessive in the nineteenth century, where period of deep mourning, ordinary mourning, and half mourning were observed, most often restricting the dress choices of widows, rather than widowers. For example, when a widow is in a period of deep mourning – for one year and one day following the death of her husband – she must dress in drab and dull fabrics in respect for his memory. This was typically a combination of woollen wear, or garments fashioned from bombazine, paramatta and serge, with a crape bonnet and thick crape veil, all black of course. As a widow progresses through the respective periods of mourning she may include other fabrics into her wardrobe such as silk and velvet, add embellishments and grey, white and purple fabrics could be introduced in the final six months of the last period of mourning.

Black in Fashion 2

CHRISTIAN DIOR, Paris (couture house)
est. 1946
Christian DIOR (designer)
born France 1905, died Italy 1957
Zelie, cocktail dress 1954 autumn–winter
silk
122.0 cm (centre back); 32.0 cm (waist, flat)
Purchased NGV Foundation, 2006

Mourning to night
Women of the late nineteenth century must have welcomed the end of the burden of wearing black in mourning, and celebrated the new appearance of black in the form of evening gowns, most famously in John Singer Sargent’s portrait Madame X (1883-84). The early twentieth century became an exciting time for fashionable women living in urban societies, as women embraced the glamour of wearing black at night. Coco Chanel’s template for the iconic ‘little black dress’ is remarked upon as being one of the most adaptable, enduring, and also timeless classics of fashion design. Chanel’s choice of black remained strongly associated with the dress style and continued in its further developments throughout the 1920s and 1930s, and grew in popularity in the time of cocktail parties in the 1950s. Some of the most authentic and recognised examples of this were designed by French couturiers Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga.

The punk movement and postwar subcultures
Black was the popular colour for postwar subcultures and countercultures. The Beat Generation and bikers in the United States, the intellectuals of the Left Bank in France, and most outrageously by the punk movement of the punk movement in Britain and America, all used black predominantly in their wardrobes. The connotations in black of death fitted with the ‘No Future’ punk attitude and the combination of a black leather jacket, black skinny jeans, and black Doc Marten boots with safety pins, studs, spikes and chains gave a menacing and shocking appearance to those who wore them.

Black in Fashion 3

Tragedy Design, Melbourne (fashion house)
est. 1993
Stephen Bruton (designer)
born Australia 1971
Lacetex vest and trousers 1994 (detail)
latex, polypropylene, plastic, metal
(a) 52.0 cm (centre back); 37.0 cm (waist, flat) (vest)
(b) 103.0 cm (outer leg); 42.5 cm (waist, flat) (trousers)
Purchased, 1994

The use of the safety pin in punkwear stems from the poverty and want of simple commodities of that generation; punks paraded their lack of jewellery by adopting safety pins and chains instead. However, one aspect of their dress that was somewhat easier to come by was black clothing. Black material has only been possible to obtain cheaply and easily since the refinement of synthetic dyes in the last century. Before then, creating and processing a black dye was a difficult task, as unlike other colours, black dye is not found in a natural state. A black dye was created by a process of overdyeing which often resulted in a blue-black. These were also unstable dyes, and until the 1850s garments made from fabric dyed in this way would spoil in wet and also hot weather, often resulting in dyeing the wearer black and giving off unpleasant odours. The lengthy dyeing process required at this time to create the dark coloured clothing also caused attire made from black fabrics to be expensive to buy.

Black: the designers’ choice
Black has been and will remain an iconic and classic colour in fashion design, as it is reflected by the choices made by the designers themselves. Christian Dior described his feelings about black as ‘the most popular and the most convenient and the most elegant of all colours. And I say colour on purpose, because black may be sometimes just as striking as a colour’.
Yohji Yamamoto, the Tokyo designer, has concentrated on the use of black in his collections because ‘black is modest and arrogant at the same time. Black is lazy and easy – but mysterious. It means that many things go together, yet it takes different aspects in many fabrics…But above all black says this: “I don’t bother you – don’t bother me!”
Gianni Versace’s evening dress evokes the character of the femme fatale, curiosity through mystery and deception, while Jean Paul Gaultier’s military designs asserts black’s authoritative power in fashion design.

Black in Fashion 4

SEX, London (fashion house)
1974–76
Vivienne Westwood (designer)
born England 1941
Malcolm McLaren (designer)
born England 1946
Court shoes 1974–76
leather, metal, rubber
(a-b) 17.3 x 8.5 x 23.2 cm (each)
Purchased, 1985
© Courtesy of Vivenne Westwood

However, it wasn’t just the male designers who saw the value of black in their fashion design. At the time when Vivienne Westwood was introducing fetish wear into the mainstream in London, particular with her black, high-heeled and spiked Court shoes (1974-76), Jenny Bannister was making waves in Australia for her ‘body sculpture’ work. She embraced the punk style and their penchant for black clothing, which seems to the be the point where black in fashion and the city of Melbourne fell in love. The ‘black attack’ of the 1980s has continued until the present, with Chanel’s little black dress remaining a firm staple in womenswear worldwide. All of these designers and more are well represented as part of this significant exhibition at the NGV.Far from being a drab, monotone or even morbid experience, the NGV’s exhibition shows that the history of black in fashion is a very colourful one, and one that will continue to dominant contemporary design.

Black in Fashion: Mourning to Night
NGV Australia at Federation Square from 8 February – 24 August 2008
NGV International on St Kilda Road from 29 February – 31 August 2008
Entry is free
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